The Nakasendo once linked Kyoto and Edo across the mountains, and the cobbled stretch between the post towns of Magome and Tsumago is the most rewarding day walk on the whole route.
It's an easy eight kilometres through cedar forest and rice terraces, past waterfalls and a working bear bell you ring to announce yourself. The grade is gentle and the way-marking faultless.
Both towns have been beautifully preserved as Edo-period streetscapes, all dark timber inns and stone gutters running with mountain water. Stay overnight in a minshuku for the full effect.
A handy service forwards your main bag between the towns so you walk light, and the local buses fill any gaps if the weather turns.
Good to know
- Walk Magome to Tsumago downhill; it is an easy eight kilometres.
- Use the bag-forwarding service between the towns and walk light.
- Stay a night in a minshuku for the full Edo-era effect.
